I don’t want to say how I ended up with a $165 sweatshirt, because it was a stupid thing that involved me not looking at a return policy. I’d like to say I’m too old to make a mistake like that but I guess you’re never too old to secretly want something you can’t afford.

So I’ll write this off as a way to show why it’s $165 and the other sweatshirt I have here (which will remain unbranded to protect this blogger from a lawsuit) is not $165.

First, the cheap sweatshirt:

This overlock seam stands up like a little soldier. And it's like a quarter inch high too.

The sideseams are overlocked. Which is not a crime in and of itself, but if you’re selling something to a discerning customer, who expects something really special, but doesn’t know why it’s special, but they know it when they see it, this big bulky thing is simply not acceptable.

Here’s the James Perse seam

Flat flat flat

This is a coverstitch, but see how flat and narrow?

How? Why?

This is an overlap seam. It’s like this. Hold your hands out palm down. Put your right pointer finger over your left, with both your palms still facing down. Sew.

Well, no. Don’t actually sew. But that’s an overlap seam.

The white sweatshirt was done with a regular seam that involves you putting your palms together, sewing the edge and spreading your palms apart. Which works on a lot of different seams in a lot of different fabrics because it’s easy and clean. But with four thread coverstitch on French terry it looks like a thirty-dollar sweatshirt.

Moving on to the zipper:

Yeah, that's my finger taking that picture.

Looks like a zipper with a plain raw finish inside. Who cares?

Compare.

This, on the other hand is a Riri zipper, and when you use it, it feels like a jet engine has just landed.

This stuff counts.